Nihonbashi (bridge)traditional craftdecorative string used to hold a kimono sash in placeplaited cord
Kumi-himo, which are well-known as obi-jime for kimonos, are the essence of Japanese culture, combining practicality and beauty created by human hands. Ryu Kobo, established in Nihonbashi in 1963, is a long-established company that has been supporting the braided cord culture for more than 130 years by mastering the technique of braided cords as a family business. It is a long-established company that has continued to support the braided cord culture. We interviewed Mr. Ryuta Fukuda, the young third generation of Ryu Kobo, about the words he holds dear, the innovation of braided cords, and his relationship with his father, the second generation.
first partArticle by
There are more than 300 different kumi-himo techniques. Some of Lady Gaga’s favorite products.
In the second half, we will hear about the history of innovation at Ryukobo.
There are more than 300 different types of braided cord techniques. Among them, the basic obi-jime is made of silk, or shoken (pure silk). However, there are also a wide variety of shapes, such as extra-thick or hollow ones, which have led to the cross-fertilization of techniques and collaborations with different crafts.
Excellent.
In this work, the braided cords are double and hollow, as if drawing a whorl, and the shape is changed to “flat hollow” in the middle of the braid. The hollow space allows it to be used as a pen case as well.
It seems to be very skillful and ingenious.
We are challenging ourselves from various angles to create ways of assembly, such as crossing existing methods and creating completely new technologies.
I see that it requires a great deal of discipline to create new patterns.
The next product we would like to introduce is “Kumihimo Heel-less Shoes,” which are worn by the world-famous singer and actress Lady Gaga. Last year and this year, for the second year in a row, we collaborated with a contemporary artist, Noritaka Tatehana, to produce these shoes. The “studs,” which I personally love, are expressed by tying the braided cords. Also, the front side of the red cord is interwoven with the back side of the blue cord, subtly incorporating the “Haneura culture” of using the color of the back of the fabric for expression.
This is a wonderful item that has been sent out as part of the “Edo Tokyo Kirari Project” by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, and the local government is also a proud supporter of the project.
I never thought I would be creating products used by Lady Gaga (laughs). (Laughs.) When you work in traditional crafts, you can work with people you thought were “wonderful” in various genres such as cameras, cosmetics, and advertisements, depending on your own expression. Now, I sometimes give lectures at universities, and one of my dreams is to have students have the option of “becoming a craftsman” as well as finding a job.
I hope that the world will become a place where craftsmen are the object of admiration, such as “cool.
We also have a product that we produced at the request of a famous Italian brand. This is one of the examples of our creative expression, combining different materials: leather for the central row and pure silk for the surrounding area.
Kumihimo has unlimited possibilities. Usage spills over into interior design and interior decoration.
I heard from the second generation that Ryu Kobo is really trying various things, such as weaving metal. That is how many possibilities there are in kumi-himo.
Although there is some information that cannot be disclosed outside the company very much, I feel that the possibilities of various materials such as steel, copper wire, magnetic thread, luminescent thread, and anti-bacterial thread are expanding, especially recently.
Three-dimensional and diverse materials. Kumihimo has infinite possibilities.
When a long-established French maison held a display in Shinsaibashi, Osaka, they hung 550 braided curtains of nearly 7 meters in length. The total weight was 2 tons. We have recently been receiving requests for store displays like this.
It is well worth a look, everyone, so please visit the storefront and take a look.
It was an honor to receive this work from a famous brand, and we were grateful that so many people on the street saw and cared about our products. Our goal is to promote kumihimo culture, so we think it is important to get people interested in kumihimo first.
So new possibilities are opening up, not only for the traditional use in kimonos, but also for interior decoration and store decoration.
In the area of interior design and interior-related products, there is a product called “lighting using braided cords. We worked on the design in collaboration with a designer, and also devised a way to incorporate a “knot” shape into the braided cord after it is assembled.
That is amazing. How long does it take to produce?
Some obijime pieces can be made as early as six to eight hours, but usually take a week, and longer products may require a month.
That’s how much time and effort went into this work.
Kumihimo culture is spreading to anime and overseas. Ryu Kobo’s challenge continues.
Ryu Kobo’s braided cords, which have been innovated through three generations, are used in a variety of situations such as medal ribbons for sports events. What do you envision for the future in expanding such inter-cultural ties?
The traditional crafts, kimono and kimono industry is by no means an industry that is growing steadily. We are feeling the collapse of the business structure that has existed until now. Therefore, we would like to devise more creative ways to transmit and express our ideas, while remaining firmly seated and focused on manufacturing. Our primary mission is to preserve our signage, so I think it is important to continue to take on challenges to achieve this goal.
The continuation of Ryu Kobo itself leads to the “inheritance of techniques. The hundreds of different techniques and size variations that have been accumulated over the years are not only assets, but also open doors to new possibilities. For example, we have heard that the possibilities of overseas markets are expanding.
Before the Corona disaster, we used to visit Europe, mainly France, England, and Italy, about twice a year. Our studio has ties with anime culture, as we have produced official goods for the movie “Kimi no na wa wa” (What is your name?), and anime has become an opportunity for people overseas to become interested in and attracted to braided cords (silk braid, braided cord). There is still room for further penetration, but I think we must continue to promote the craft through exhibitions, embassy events, and so on, in a non-transient manner. To this end, I would like to emphasize the importance of continuing to take on new challenges.
You are working on new innovations not only in product development but also in distribution and promotion. In addition to obijime for kimono, I see more and more places where braided cords are used for interior decoration.
Thanks to the increasing number of media coverage of my work, I am very grateful for the opportunity to be featured in the media, because the first step is to have people use my work. I am also aware of the fact that I am still a young man, and I must remain humble.
I am very much looking forward to the future of Ryukobo, which is tackling a variety of challenges. Finally, could you give a message to our readers, including where we can find a connection with Ryukobo?
In the past, we used to hold workshops as an opportunity to meet you in person and touch our braided cords. Although we have suspended these workshops due to the Corona disaster, we hope that you will take a look at the displays we have put a lot of effort into, as well as the information we send out on Instagram. Please take as many pictures as you like (laughs). We are very happy when we happen to see you using our obijime and other products in town. We look forward to your continued patronage.
Kimono wearers and non-kimono wearers alike may have seen braided cords on store displays or in animations. We are sure that the interest in kumi-himo has been deepened by learning about Ryu Kobo’s third generation, Mr. Ryuta Fukuda’s passion for kumi-himo culture and the techniques he has developed over more than 130 years.
*If you would like to see this dialogue on video.here (place close to the speaker or where the speaker is)
